Top Sapphire Glass Identification Method

Sapphire is the general name for corundum gemstones other than red rubies among corundum gemstones. The main component is alumina (Al2O3). Blue sapphire is caused by a small amount of titanium (Ti) and iron (Fe) impurities mixed in it. Sapphire has high hardness, and watches made with it have higher shock resistance, tightness and strength than other materials. At the same time, this is also an important factor for the quality assurance of top watches.
What is a sapphire crystal?
The sapphire mirrors currently installed on watches are actually alumina trioxide with impurities such as iron oxide and titanium oxide removed. Chemically speaking, there is no difference between synthetic sapphire and natural crystal, and it is colorless because no other elements are added There is no ‘blue’ color for transparency. Aluminum trioxide is made from pure alumina at high temperature into original synthetic sapphire, which is then cut into diamonds by diamond tools and then polished into a mirror. Due to the high cost of processing tools, this is also one of the reasons for the higher cost of sapphire crystals. The technology of synthetic sapphire was invented in the 19th century. It has been used in watches since the 1960s, and now the top watch brands generally use sapphire glass.
好 What’s so good about sapphire crystals?
First, it will not be scratched. Sapphire is very hard and is an inevitable choice for top watches. However, like glass, it is more brittle and easily broken. Therefore, once this sapphire mirror is broken, the resulting maintenance costs will be very expensive, because watchmakers must carefully check to ensure that no sapphire debris is left in the movement before replacing the lenses. In addition, it is a powerful fingerprint collector, so it must be wiped frequently to make it shine. Whether it is natural sapphire or synthetic sapphire, it is one of the hardest substances on the planet, with a hardness of up to 9 Mohs. In addition to diamond in nature, there is nothing harder than it. Note that what is said here is not in nature, not that it is not on earth. Some man-made silicon-carbon compounds can reach a hardness of 9 and can also scratch sapphire. Many construction and decoration materials also use silicon carbon compounds, such as artificial stone, so if there is friction in these places, it is possible to leave scratches on the sapphire glass.
Can I change the plexiglass watch to a sapphire watch?
I can’t. Because the thickness of the case is different. Under normal circumstances, the mirror surface of sapphire is thicker than that of plexiglass. Maybe you can find the right size sapphire crystal, but this will also destroy the waterproof performance of the watch. In addition, as a result of this, many manufacturers will refuse to provide maintenance and repair for your watch.
How to identify the sapphire crystal?
1. Breath method
I took a sigh of relief on the surface, and the mist was quickly spreading out of sapphire crystal glass. Generally, when you remove your mouth from the top of the glass, the mist spreads out. When you look at the surface, the mist is no longer visible.
2. Light tap method
Use your nails to gently tap the surface, remember that it must be light, it is likely that the fake will break, then you will not be compensated if it is dull, the surface is sapphire crystal. Crystal or glass, the sound is more crisp.
3. Drip method
If possible, put a drop of water on the surface, and then erect the surface. The water droplets will not spread out, and they will slowly fall. It must be slow, very slow, this is the sapphire crystal.
How to identify the three materials of the mirror?
First, you can tap the mirror with your finger and listen carefully to the sound. Acrylic mirrors sound like plastic, while glass sounds thicker. Secondly, from the perspective of weight, the acrylic mirror is the lightest and the sapphire mirror is the heaviest. Because sapphire’s thermal conductivity is very good, when you touch it with your hands, you will have a cold feeling. Because the mirror surface of sapphire is much smoother than the mirrors of the other two materials, if you drop a drop of water on the sapphire mirror, the water droplets will not spread easily, and the other materials will be scattered.

Delicious Berries Tasting Bvlgari Berries Retrograde Minute Hand Watch

‘Intoxicate and be charmed by it, it’s as sweet as it is.’ For those who are fascinated by the fine craftsmanship of Bulgari watches or the noble style of their high jewelry, this sentence is especially applicable. At last year’s Baselworld, Bvlgari launched a Berries series of time-lapse and retrograde minute hand watches, retaining the brilliant gems unique to the Berries series. Today, the Watch House will bring you this Bvlgari Berries series watch, the official model is: BEW40WGD2LER.

  Berries is the plural of berry. Berries include grapes, cherries, strawberries and so on. The Bvlgari Berries series of watches, using a variety of high-quality jewelry inlaying process, the color matching of different jewelry has won countless praises.

  This Berries chronograph and retrograde minute hand watch, 40 mm diameter polished 18k white gold case set with emeralds, a gorgeous bezel made of brilliant-cut diamonds is coiled around the white mother-of-pearl dial It has become the biggest highlight of this series of new products.

  The side of the case is polished and polished, with smooth and smooth lines and moderate thickness. 18k white gold crown set with an emerald, crystal clear.

  Black satin strap with exquisite workmanship. With 18k white gold polished tri-fold clasp and round buckle set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

  Bvlgari’s unparalleled watchmaking technology is inextricably linked to its superb gem craftsmanship. Rooted in Bulgari’s deep history, this series of watches evolved from the ingenuity of the Bulgari Cocktail series of jewellery, and perfectly blended watch manufacturing with gem-setting techniques.
  Emerald is Napoleon’s favorite color and was once the iconic shade of empire and power. Nowadays, green represents good luck and courage, and becomes a messenger of hope and fun. Today, emeralds have become a common decoration in Bvlgari’s fine jewelry collections, and are widely respected for their exotic and bright colors. The 40 mm case of this Berries time-lapse and retrograde minute hand watch is adorned with seven emeralds weighing approximately 1.63 carats. It embodies the 18k white gold case and 129 cut diamonds, shining brilliantly.

  Since 1830, French watchmaker Blondeau has invented this amazing component, pioneering the use of small window numbers on the dial instead of the hour hand. Every 60 minutes, the number in the small window changes. The hour-skipping watch combines the indication of different moments. The hours are indicated by numbers, and the minutes and seconds are reflected by traditional hands.
  The Berries series’ unique swirling ring clusters around the 12 o’clock jumping hour window, and the white mother-of-pearl dial below is accompanied by 7 groups of ’00 to 60′ Arabic numerals and inlaid diamonds, showing minutes. The blue retrograde minute hand has a unique and beautiful shape, which can be read at a glance.

  A sapphire crystal caseback on the back provides a glimpse of the exquisite movement. Equipped with an automatic movement, an hour display, a retrograde minute hand display over a 180-degree arc, and so on.

  Summary: This time-reversing and retrograde watch from the Bvlgari Berries collection, famous for its bold creativity, is a perfect fusion of fine jewelry and fine watchmaking. Such an inspiration is absolutely dazzling. Fascinated. The emerald inlaid on the watch is particularly dazzling. The emerald’s Persian name is ‘zamarat’, which means ‘the essence of treasure’. From the Middle Ages to the Enlightenment, this natural green has been regarded as a symbol of luxury, power, richness and distinction. The use of emeralds and diamonds in this watch is a feast of gemstones, which looks as delicious as attractive berries.

Plum Blossom Watch Warning: Please Do Not Disassemble The Watch Yourself To Avoid Impact And Fall

Please do not disassemble the watch by yourself, to avoid impact and fall
1. Please do not disassemble your watch at will, including disassembling any part of the watch or removing the screws. Also do not ask any unauthorised repair to open your watch or replace the battery.
2. After a special reminder: According to the terms of the warranty, if any watch is dismantled and removed, the watch will no longer be guaranteed.
3. A watch is a very precise instrument. It collects energy through the mainspring and winding chain, and then transmits the energy to the balance spring system through the transmission system to time, and then displays the time through the transmission system and hands. Hundreds of parts may be contained in a tiny space of centimeters, and damage, looseness or displacement of one of these parts may cause the watch to run incorrectly or even stop.
4. In order to make your love watch durable, please pay attention to protect it from impact and fall, and develop good usage habits. Pay special attention when you take off the watch, please pay attention to placing it in a safe place, such as throwing it on a table, basin, etc., it is easy to cause scratches on the appearance and even damage to the internal components.

The French ‘breitling’ Aerobatic Team Started Its First Trip To Japan

It has been a long time since the Fukushima nuclear leak in Japan. With the oblivion of bystanders, few people may pay attention to this place. But in order to give the people of Fukushima more care and tell them that the world has not forgotten them, the Breitling aerobatic flight demonstration team came to this place with a mission.

 According to Japan’s ‘Sankei Shimbun’ reported on May 14, a ‘Breitling’ aerobatic flight demonstration team composed of former French Air Force fighter pilots performed a flight demonstration in Fukushima Prefecture, Japan on the 12th, in order to bless the reconstruction work of the Fukushima earthquake-stricken area. successfully launch.

It is understood that as the first performance in Japan, the ‘Breitling’ aerobatic flight demonstration team went to Fukushima after a ‘small test of the bull’ on the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge in Kobe, Japan on the 6th, and participated in ‘Looking Up at the Sky’ on the 11th to support the reconstruction of the disaster area activity. After taking off from Fukushima Airport, they flew over Koriyama, Fukushima, Inawashiro, Kitakata, Aizuwakamatsu, Minamiaizucho and other places. With superb flying skills, they sent a blessing to the reconstruction work of the earthquake-stricken area. .

According to reports, the flight show originally planned to be held on the 12th in the eastern coastal cities of Fukushima Prefecture, Soma City, Minamisoma City, and Onahama Port was cancelled due to weather. The pilots then took a bus to Onamana Port. Local people said they were very excited to get close to the pilots.

Elegance Of The Goddess Of The Moon Blancpain Watch Series Quantième Complet Full Calendar Moon Phase Watch Tasting (On)

The 1970s were the heaviest and hardest days in the history of Swiss mechanical watchmaking. The cheap quartz watch dumping market is flooding the world’s watch market. The price war has not brought a return to the earnings of outstanding mechanical watchmaking families. In this ‘quartz storm’, almost all Swiss watchmaking brands have suffered To severe impact. The Swiss watchmaking industry has introduced quartz watches in response to the market. At that time, the complicated function of full moon phase profit and loss in watch altars had disappeared for a long time, and Blancpain watch persisted in doing it the other way, only making the most valuable watch in the heart. In 1983, Blancpain brought this complication back to the table with the Cal.6395 movement. This perseverance originates from Mr. Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, the founder of Blancpain. He always insists that Blancpain watches are only round watches; this obsession refocuses the world’s attention on the field of traditional watchmaking, making the traditional watchmaking industry Entered the road to revival.
  Today, let’s take a look at when Blancpain has re-established itself as one of the top watch brands, and in what ways will the world remember it again. These days, a new guest has come to the Watch House, the Blancpain watch series QUANTIÈME COMPLET full calendar watch, model number: 3663A-4654-71B. When it comes to Blancpain, you can’t miss the moon phase watch, and not to mention that the quality is first-class and the function is complete. Just looking at that playful face, you can’t help but look at it. At first glance, I saw Blancpain 3663A-4654-71B. To be honest, I do n’t really feel it. I ca n’t tell why, but without too much touch, unlike Audemars Piguet, it is difficult to extricate myself at first glance. Patek Philippe was drunk at first glance. But something can’t help scrutinizing carefully, and can’t stand repeated thinking, that’s not perfect. Blancpain’s beauty is like this. At first glance, it is not eye-catching, but it has a unique charm forever. At first glance, it is not gorgeous and noisy, but it is practical and atmospheric. At first glance, it is unpretentious and elegant. The same feeling is that when I look at the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5000-1110-B52 watch, when you look at it carefully and hold the loupe to admire it, you will find that it is beautiful and flawless. . So such a perfect dial of 148,500 yuan is indeed a good value.

Insert a picture of the Blancpain plant

 The diameter of the dial is 35.5mm. The mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with a radioactive flower shape centered on a small second hand, which is exquisite and elegant. This is the elegance of Blancpain. The mother-of-pearl does not use its unique luster. , Does not show people the original appearance, unique processing, branding the unique characteristics of the watch. Except for the 12, 3, and 9 o’clock positions set with gold Roman numerals, the dial is inlaid with 9 full-cut diamonds, about 0.025 carats; the case is set with 40 diamonds, totaling 1.92 carats. At the same price, I haven’t found a diamond that is more perfect and more crystal-rich than its watch face.

Blancpain’s watchmakers divided the mother-of-pearl dial into two parts, the date track was printed on the middle track, and the hour and minute hands centered on the line to make a triangular convex surface, which was more three-dimensional than the flat flat pointer. The date hand is decorated with a little bead on the tip of the needle, like the slim bead fairy, dotted with a white plate. The crown thread is non-slip and does not leave a mark, making it perfectly natural to the dial. The 30-meter water resistance keeps the crown design from being stupid, full of winding force and not loose.
Some people say that steel diamonds are not atmospheric, but they look like a small family, but I say that it is Blancpain’s technology that makes fine steel with beautiful diamonds not lost to any precious metal; others say diamonds are too expensive, but I said It is the sincerity of Blancpain that makes stainless steel and diamonds an absolute advantage in price. It wasn’t these obvious advantages that initially attracted me.

What really attracted me was that playful moon face. I like moonphase watches very much, no matter which moonphase watch, I want to wait for the day when she smiles. I don’t want to adjust him quickly, I just want to wait for her to come day by day. When you see the half-faced moon face, from the perspective of appreciation, you will not lose a whole face. The moon phase face slowly came from the left, from the sky and stars to the Emei moon, and then from the upper black moon to the full moon, one step in a cycle until the waning moon, and finally a new moon rose.

 For many years, Blancpain has established its position on the altar by producing only mechanical watches. Blancpain has never produced a quartz watch since 1735, and this pride is enough to make people look up. Today, Blancpain has the largest moon phase family in the industry. Most of the male watches in the Villeret series use the male face as the moon phase image, eyes looking to the right, lively. As you can imagine, the moon moves one square to the right every day, and the delicate little face can’t wait to come out to see how cute this bustling world is.

However, the Blancpain 3663A-4654-71B watch is a face of a coquettish woman with slightly closed eyes and long eyelashes, bringing a calm and noble temperament to women’s watches, a little playful and cute, but more A calm and elegant. Combining an elegant woman with a silver-clad moon girl on top of the heavenly palace, it is hard to make people dislike it!

Blancpain full calendar moon phase movement Cal.6763

   The tuning method is very convenient and easy to learn. The upper part of the crown is the month adjustment, the lower part is the date adjustment; the Blancpain logo on the left is the week adjustment, and the lower phase is the moon phase adjustment. If you want to adjust the date by twisting the crown, the moon phase and week will also be adjusted. Follow along.
 
 Summary: Next, I will bring hands-on photos. Although my arm is not extremely slender, but I am also a girl of normal weight, so when 40 plump diamonds surround your watch, when mother of pearl decoration Holding your wrist, when your wrist is surrounded by grace, any girl will be graced and serene by it. The next article brings you the beauty of the Blancpain watch series 3663A-4654-71B, so stay tuned. (Text / picture watch house Liu Peng)

Perfect Perfection Chronoswiss ‘perpetual Calendar’ Perpetual Calendar

Different, the world of complex watches is another country. Following the advent of the unique minute repeater and flying tourbillon watch, Chronoswiss from Munich introduced a perpetual calendar watch with perfect performance. As early as 1985, when Mr. Gerd-R. Lang was reviving mechanical timepieces, he produced a perpetual calendar watch accurate to February 28, 2100. This perpetual calendar watch is based on the Julian Calendar developed by the ancient Roman calendar in 45 BC by Gajus Julius Caesar, based on the advice of astronomer Sosigenes The calendar is the most talked about achievement of Emperor Caesar. Basically, the Julian Calendar stipulates that every four years, that is, three years in a row after 365 days in a normal year, followed by a leap year of 366 days, is the calendar used to this day. However, this calendar had a small flaw that caused Pope Gregory the XIII to revise the new monthly calendar system after 1582. If the Julian Calendar is used for calculation, it will be 11 minutes and 14 seconds (ie 0.0078 days) longer than the actual time of the year. By the 16th century AD, the accumulated deviation was 10 days. The deviation of the calendar led to errors in religious festivals, so the Pope proposed that they must be corrected. The correction method is as simple as adding a new rule: a year with a mantissa of 00 does not add a leap year, unless the year is divisible by 400, the year is a leap year; February has 29 days. For example, the years 1700, 1800, 1900, 2100, and 2200 are not leap years.

Quem Juckat (meaning: who cares about this trivial correction)? ? Latin students would say so. That’s why Mr. Gerd-Rudiger. Lang considered making ‘complex performance’ watches. In fact, this is related to the masterpiece of the great watchmaker Thomas Mudge. In 1764, Thomas released the first pocket watch that can correctly handle the number of different months and days in both normal and leap years. After 163 years, the first hand-wound watch with the same complexity was introduced. Chronoswiss’s perpetual calendar is equipped with Chronoswiss’s homemade self-winding movement C.127. The perpetual calendar components are composed of about 50 components, which are reliable and accurate.
A systematic approach to the watchmaking tradition is Mr. Gerd- Rudiger Lang’s watchmaking philosophy. The analysis includes the length and proportion of the hands, the dial design, and the meticulous treatment of the case. Watch performance, reliability, precision and exquisite craftsmanship to achieve the highest requirements, is the primary goal.

CH 1721 R-Rose gold

Such strict self-requirement can be appreciated through the transparent sapphire crystal glass on the back. This Perpetual Calendar watch is equipped with a Chronoswiss automatic C. 127 self-winding movement. The balance wheel vibrates 21,600 times per hour. The ball-bearing automatic disc efficiently transmits the stored power to the hairspring. In the fully wound state, the power reserve can reach 40 hours. The sophisticated and sophisticated perpetual calendar gear system is the soul of this watch. It is purely a technical consideration to choose to hide the perfect perpetual calendar system under the faceplate without revealing this sophisticated mechanical component. This perpetual calendar watch not only can accurately indicate the day, date and month, but also has a moon phase disk to watch the moon’s profit and loss.

CH 1723-Stainless steel, white dial

This C. 58 million calendar module is unique in that it consists of a disc that rotates only every 4 years on its axis. The grooves of different depths on the edge of the disc represent different lengths of the month mechanism. More specifically, different from the clockwise moon phase disk design, Mr. Gerd-Rudiger. Lang follows the anti-clockwise moon phase etiquette of the ancient pocket watch, making the subverted traditional moon phase more attractive. It is worth mentioning that this Chronoswiss proprietary complex perpetual calendar component is made by Dubois-Depraz, a well-known manufacturer of fine mechanical components from Vallee de Joux, Switzerland. This perpetual calendar module is 26.2mm in diameter, 5.2mm thick, and is set with 30 gems. The large crown of this perpetual calendar watch and the waterproof ring of the correction key are directly assembled on the connecting tube, which has good waterproof performance. The thoughtful design allows users to replace the waterproof ring regularly to ensure waterproof performance.

CH 1723 bk-stainless steel, black dial

Chronoswiss new perpetual calendar watch with elegant appearance, white 925 sterling silver surface with Poire Stuart style streamlined ‘Poire Stuart’ style blue steel hands, with 36 solid components The case showcases top watchmaking skills. Different from the typical coin-patterned bezel of other Chronoswiss, it has the same smooth and delicate case as the two minute watch, which is another major feature of this perpetual calendar watch. Now, wear this charming watch on your wrist and enjoy its beauty! It is particularly exciting that before the end of the month, whether it is the 28th, 29th, 30th, or 31st, the date pointer will jump to the correct starting date in an instant without error.
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C. 127 automatic movement for Swiss watch

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Chronoswiss Perpetual Calendar technical parameters
Model: CH 1721 R rose gold RMB 350,000 / CH 1723 steel, white dial RMB 235,500 / CH 1723 bk steel, black dial RMB 235,500
Display: The junior hand, the pointer date, day of the week, month and leap year dial display, moon phase profit and loss and lunar calendar display.
Case: consists of 36 parts, diameter 40mm, thickness 12.9mm, onion crown, screw-in concealed correction button, spiral polished bezel and screw-in case back, anti-glare and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass , Patented Autobloc screw-in lug system, waterproof 30 meters.
Movement: Chronoswiss independently developed the C.127 self-winding movement with a diameter of 26.80mm, 30 stones (including components), an Incabloc shock absorber, a 40-hour power reserve, and a vibration frequency of 21,600 times per hour , Precise calibration button, independent numbering.
Components: Exclusive dedicated perpetual calendar component C.5800 (Dubois-Depraz), 48-month control panel with a four-year period, diameter 26. 20mm, CHRONOSWISS dedicated counterclockwise rotating moon phase display.
Surface: 925 sterling silver surface, streamlined Poire Stuart blue steel hands.

Walking In The Clouds Breitling Flight Feast In Lucerne

From June 19th to 28th, Breitling VIPs gathered in Luzern, Switzerland. Many Breitling exclusive flight performance teams and legendary aircraft in the history of aviation brought a gorgeous, Thrilling flight feast. Breitling fans are looking forward to the annual flying event. In early summer in Switzerland, the global Breitling VIPs gathered in Lucerne for a grand celebration.
     Ever since human beings learned to walk, there has been no dream of stopping flying. Above the altitude of 1,000 kilometers, the wind whispers in my ears, the blue sky seems to be within reach, everything is like ants under the feet, and the vast sky in front of me makes the tiny life like … the uninhibited and free flight, reminiscent and dreamy. However, the annual Breitling flying event makes all this more than just a dream.
Breitling Jet Team is ready to go Every Breitling Jet Team performance is a thrilling visual impact
     This year, Breitling invited a number of VIPs from China. Among them, it is known as ‘the leader of China’s real estate industry’, entrepreneur Wang Shi, who loves mountain climbing and has created the oldest record of Everest in China. Among the founders of Global Magazine Sun Mian, the founder of New Weekly, the only one who raised his banner on Everest, and Li Quan, a well-known music producer and singer who composed his life with music, shared the joy of flying with them. Away from the hustle and bustle of the ground, rise into the cool air that few people breathe, overlooking a lake and mountains, and see the charm of Lucerne’s skyline.

Seiko: Everyone Laughs At Me Too Crazy, I Laugh At Others And See Through

How to tell whether a watch is a quartz movement or a mechanical movement? The easiest way for most cousins ​​to think of is to watch the way the second hand moves. If the second hand is ‘jumping by one second’, commonly known as ‘jumping seconds’, then it is a quartz watch; if the second hand is ‘swept across’ the dial, commonly known as ‘sweep seconds’, it is a mechanical watch. The reason for this difference is that the quartz watch hands are driven by an electric motor. In order to save power, it is designed to start every one second. But in fact, all the mechanical watches we encounter in life, its second hand is jumping and moving. It’s just that the frequency of its beating is too high and the amplitude of its rotation is too small, 5-10 times per second, so it is invisible to our naked eyes. If you do n’t believe it, you can turn on your phone and use slow-motion photography to take pictures of your mechanical watch, and you will find that it is also a “jump second”. The reason behind this is that the mechanical watch uses a balance spring, balance wheel, and escapement structure, and the escapement requires 5-10 “card” and “put” operations per second. When the pointer runs, it naturally follows the pause and start. However, there is such a watch, its second hand is a real ‘sweep second’, no matter how slow the camera, the effect is the same. Time really flows from your wrist to me … It is Spring Drive from Seiko, Japan. On December 25, 1969, the world’s first quartz watch ‘Quartz Astron’ was launched by Seiko Japan in Tokyo, showing unprecedented superior performance. The average monthly error is within 5 seconds, more than 100 times more accurate than any other watch at the time, and it can work continuously for a whole year, which is 250 times that of most mechanical watches. The quartz revolution began here. Although there has been a huge leap in accuracy and the endurance energy has also reached a whole year, the research and development staff of Seiko Seiko ‘Akaba Hawa’ is not very satisfied. In his opinion, the quartz watch must be disassembled and replaced every other year, while the mechanical watch needs to be disassembled and cleaned every 4.5 years. If you can develop a watch that can run for a long time and maintain high precision, it would be perfect! Standing 50 years later, today, facing the problem of ‘Akaba Hawa’, the solution we think of is very simple. Both artificial kinetic watches that rely on mechanical automatic gyro power generation, or solar kinetic watches that rely on solar energy can be implemented. Yes, there were already two engineering teams in Seiko working on related development and production. At the same time, ‘Akaba Hawa’ proposed an idea with a big brain, which is the origin of Spring Drive. In 1982, the first prototype of Spring Drive was launched. Although the design concept was proved to be feasible, this prototype product consumes too much power and has low power generation efficiency. It can only run for about 3 hours, and was finally inserted by Seiko. Leng Gong, production and research and development ceased. Eleven years later, in 1993, Seiko improved the Spring Drive movement and developed a second-generation prototype. The power reserve was increased to 10 hours, but it was still very low, and eventually passed again. In 1997, ‘Akaba Hawa’ launched the Spring Drive project, with the goal of upgrading the power reserve time to the conventional level of mechanical watches ’48 hours’. Thanks to technological advancement, Seiko finally launched the first mass production watch using Spring Drive technology at the Basel Switzerland watch exhibition in April 1998, which shocked the watch industry. The first generation of Spring Drive required manual winding. In 2004, Seiko released the Spring Drive model on its high-end series Grand Seiko, equipped with an automatic winding 9R65 movement, with a power reserve of 72 hours. In terms of design, this watch continues the concept of Grand Seiko since its introduction in 1960, that is, ‘the highest level of ordinaryness’. Simple bar-top scale, clear sword-shaped hands, calendar window at three o’clock, power reserve display at seven o’clock. Many cousins ​​feel ‘not complicated enough’ when seeing this style, and ‘complicated enough’ is understood as ‘not powerful enough’. But when you really get the actual watch and compare it with other brands of watches, you will immediately find that Grand Seiko is different. Under the same light, GS will be clearer and easier to read. The reason is that the scale and hands of GS have been cut, chamfered, and mirror polished. It is one of the finest dials and hands among all brands. Since 1960, the Lion is the representative of Grand Seiko, and has been engraved on the back of each Grand Seiko case. Although Japan does not have a native lion, the idea of ​​’exiting Asia and entering Europe’ has deeply affected this nation and even more so the Seiko brand. The reason why the lion was chosen as the representative was that the design team was determined to create the ‘king of watches’, and the lion was ‘the king of beasts.’ After removing the back cover, you can see this Spring Drive movement, which has been developed for nearly 20 years. At first glance, this movement feels like our common mechanical movement. The metal splint is covered with fine Geneva pattern polishing, and there are no circuit boards and coils used in quartz watches. The movement even features Seiko’s signature ‘magic rod’ structure, which was invented and registered in 1959. With two simple parts, the two-way automatic winding can be realized. But careful watch friends will still find that Seiko Seiko Spring Dirve movement is different from mechanical watch movement, it does not have the traditional hairspring, balance wheel, escapement. You know, these three devices are the core of mechanical watches, similar to the computer’s CPU or the human brain. Without them, the speed of the hands cannot be controlled effectively and the time cannot be displayed. So what’s the secret of the Spring Dirve movement? When we remove the automatic winding part and the upper splint of the Spring Dirve movement, we can know its secret. Although there is no hairspring, balance wheel, escapement, there are quartz crystals, coils and circuit boards equipped with quartz watches. This is a disassembly comparison chart of Spring Drive movement and conventional mechanical movement. You can clearly find the connection and difference between the two. They all have barrels and metal gear trains, but the core components are very different. The Spring Dirve movement relies on quartz crystals, coils, and circuit boards for brain control. Many table friends see this, they will doubt, relying on ‘quartz crystal, coil, circuit board’, then isn’t Spring Dirve just a quartz watch? Strictly speaking, Spring Dirve is indeed a quartz watch, but it is still different from traditional quartz watches. The energy source of a traditional quartz watch is a battery, and then the ‘motor’ is controlled by the ‘quartz crystal and circuit board’ to drive the hands to rotate. The energy source of the Spring Dirve driving pointer is not the battery, but the mechanical spring. The energy of the barrel is divided into three parts. The first part, which is also the largest energy, is directly used to promote the rotation of the mechanical gear, which in turn drives the hands to rotate. A coin cell battery, but it has a power generator. The second part of the energy is converted into electrical energy by the power generation device, and then the regular vibration of the quartz crystal is driven to obtain a high-precision vibration frequency. The third part of the energy is also converted into electrical energy and the ‘rotor’ rotation speed is controlled according to the regular vibration of the quartz crystal. Make it rotate at the same lap speed per second. To put it simply, Spring Drive is a combination of traditional mechanical watch and quartz watch. For a long time, Spring Drive watches have not been sought after by the market. In addition to brand restrictions, they are also considered ‘nondescript’ because they do not understand this watch. Friends who like mechanical watches, think it is a quartz watch, not enough ‘high-end’; friends who like quartz watches, think it is not cheap, can buy other equally accurate quartz watches with very little money, why buy ? But in fact, thanks to the combination of traditional mechanical and quartz watches, Spring Drive has some unique advantages. First, the energy source is a mechanical spring, so the watch does not need to open the movement frequently to change the battery. At the same time, there is no battery, which can prevent the accidental leakage of the battery to corrode the movement. Second, the time reference is based on a quartz crystal, which can achieve extremely high accuracy. Third, the second hand moves in a sliding motion, which more truly conveys the passage of time. At the same time, there is no sound during the operation, and it will not affect sleep when placed at the pillow at night. Seiko’s Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater watch uses the Spring Drive system. There is no longer a ticking sound during the movement of the movement, so there will be no interference when the time is reported, and the time of the three questions will be even more purely. Fourth, because the pointer is driven by a mechanical spring instead of an electric motor, the pointer can be thicker and more complex, thereby improving readability or superimposing fun functions. After developing more than 600 movement prototypes and applying for 230 patents, the ‘Akaba Hawa’ Spring Drive dream has finally come true. Twenty years have passed since he proposed the idea, and it has taken 18 years since the development began. Unfortunately, 4 months after Spring Drive’s public appearance, ‘Akawa Hako’ died. There are no perfect people or perfect watches in this world. In imperfect watches, it is already very good to find stories and special watches, and Seiko’s Spring Drive is such a ‘good work’. Everyone laughed at me too crazy, I laughed at others. If you really understand Spring Drive, you will understand the painstaking intentions of ‘Akawa Hawa’ and adherence to it for twenty years. —END —

Chanel Launches New Boy · Friend Series Watches Boy · Friend Tweed

Tweed

   Initially, Ms. Chanel re-cut and stitched men’s clothing for her own use. Later, she began to design a series of ideal clothing for women who are as passionate about outdoor activities as sports, travel, and driving.

   In the 1920s, she subverted the dress code at that time, and boldly used jersey and tweed fabrics to design women’s clothing on the premise of comfort.

   ‘The clothes are not as good as they are. The clothes I often wear most make me feel at ease, but they must not be thick and rough fabrics … definitely not! In fact, I taught the Scots how to weave light twill. Dare to convince them that it is not easy! ‘1
These tweeds then had an indelible influence on her design vocabulary. Tweed is an abrasion-resistant fabric made from carded wool and is native to Scotland. In her eyes, this kind of woolen fabric hand-knitted by the residents of the Highlands of Scotland has a unique quality: carded wool is soft and fluffy, unlike combed fabrics, which can maintain its ‘slightly grainy’ natural appearance. Desirable. Ms. Chanel is particularly fond of wool that has not been washed excessively and retains its original softness. She was even proud to be able to identify the tweeds that had been rinsed in the Tweed River.

BOY · FRIEND TWEED watch

BOY · FRIEND TWEED M

   Today, for the first time, Chanel presents the tweed texture on the stainless steel strap of the BOY • FRIEND series.

BOY · FRIEND TWEED S

   The carved strap woven from fine steel wire demonstrates Chanel’s superb watchmaking technology: in order to highlight the rich layer of tweed fabric, the fine texture is accurately and deeply pressed on the strap; at the same time, the strap is maintained Excellent flexibility to ensure comfort when worn. It can take months to make such a strap perfect.

BOY · FRIEND TWEED S Diamond

   Thanks to the craftsmanship of the craftsman, the edge of the strap combines the design elements of knitting and piping, highlighting the outline of the TWEED strap. This is exactly the same as the knit design of the edge of the pockets and cuffs of the Chanel jacket.

   The BOY · FRIEND TWEED watch and other models in the same series have an octagonal folding clasp that echoes the outline of the Paris Fontaine.

Quartz Movement Can Also Make Sense Of Luxury

The high-end quartz movement has finally raised its eyebrows in the past two years. Under the circumstances that Longines, CITIZEN and GRAND SEIKO brands have launched powerful products, and after repeated communication, consumers have finally begun to reduce their hostility to quartz. In spite of this, sales have certainly produced good results, even in discussions among players. Also revealed more and more interest and friendliness in high-priced quartz watches.

Cal. 9F82

Quartz / hour, minute, second, date / 9 stone / vibration frequency 32,768vps / annual difference ± 10 seconds, instantaneous day-to-day, dual pulse control motor, second hand rebound correction mechanism, super airtight structure, independent splint for each axis
As the only brand that continues to develop high-quality quartz, GS benefits from this development, but at the same time it has emerged from many competitors. In terms of the main selling point of high-quality quartz, the specifications of GS’s 9F movement are The difference is ± 10 seconds. Compared to the Longines VHP, which made a comeback in 2017, it has an annual difference of ± 5 seconds. In 2018, CITIZEN even released the concept movement Cal. 0100 of ± 1 second, which should make GS feel threatened, however When the author took this to ask the engineers of their watch factory, they thought that although these brands each introduced some interesting things, the 9F should still be the best among them in terms of the performance of the needle.
Here they mentioned a very important concept: ‘advanced’ quartz is not just ‘high precision’ quartz. The so-called advanced should include many other aspects besides accuracy, such as the stability of pointer operation and date switching Speed ​​and so on, these will also affect the user’s wearing experience, which determines the “advanced” feeling. Looking back at the development process of 9F, you will find that they did spend a lot of details beyond accuracy, so when they face You can still maintain full confidence when facing this challenge.

The method of 9F driving the second hand is to release the power twice in one second, and push the pointer to move half a division at a time, which means that it uses twice the power to move the pointer through one division.

GS returned to the market in the form of a quartz watch in 1988. At the time, the 95GS was introduced with an accuracy of ± 10 seconds. For quartz movements with an annual difference of ± 5 seconds, the accuracy is not too much of a problem for them, but the 95GS has been picked out for its appearance, because the quartz movement at the time was too weak to push the heavy The large pointer, so the 95GS is equipped with a slim body style. The problem is that an important feature of the GS in the 1960s is the high-weight Dove needles. The taste of the fine needles after modification is always worse, and this is the point. It became the main weakness of 95GS criticized by players.
In order to improve this, Seiko once again learned from their past research and development results. In fact, Seiko only produced a powerful 7C movement in 1986. At that time, this movement was designed for a 1,000-meter water-resistant catfish diving watch. It is to promote the large luminous hands necessary for diving watches, so the motor torque of the movement is strong, which just solves the problem faced by the new GS. So Seiko integrated the powerful output of 7C and the original grade accuracy. Introduced the first exclusive movement 9F83 of Hyundai GS, which opened a brand new chapter for the history of GRAND SEIKO and even quartz movement.
The powerful torque of the double pulse motor
The powerful torque of 9F comes from its ‘double pulse control motor’. Generally, the quartz movement drives the second hand to release the power once per second, and push the hand to go one division at a time. In the case of 9F, the power is released twice per second. The hand moves half a grid, which means that it uses twice the power to move the hand through one grid. Through this mechanism, the movement can drive the GS ‘wide Douven needle. Today, even ordinary quartz movements can push large hands and even moon phase disks, but even if GS developed such technology 25 years ago, its pioneering work still cannot be ignored.

In order to ensure that the parts are in a dust-free environment and to prevent deterioration of the lubricant, the 9F uses an ultra-airtight structure to seal the entire movement. Only the watchmaker of the main factory can open it.

Aged quartz
The high accuracy of 9F comes mainly from their unique quartz growing method. The quartz used in 9F is produced by the Epson factory of SEIKO from the rough stage. After cutting into the required shape, each piece of quartz will undergo a ‘cure’ for 90 days. During this process, they will be at a temperature of 25 degrees, In a controlled environment with a humidity of 50%, continuous shocks are applied to the quartz, thereby ‘cutting off their fat’, and the performance of each piece of quartz is recorded during the period. Only three months later, only those that meet the standard of ± 10 seconds of annual difference can remain For 9F, if there is more accurate (such as ± 5 seconds), it will be mixed into the product, or it can be selected separately for special styles.
One-to-one temperature control and fine-tuning
Temperature is the main factor that causes the accuracy of quartz movements to fluctuate. Each piece of quartz on 9F will record their habit, and then write these characteristics one by one into the respective IC of each movement. The customized method is matched with a low-power temperature monitoring system 540 times a day to achieve the temperature control of the movement. In addition, the 9F also has a rare fast and slow adjustment device for quartz movement. It can adjust the speed of the movement by rotating the fine adjustment screw according to his environment and habits after long-term wearing. Fine-tuning is performed to personalize and optimize precision.
Backlash adjustment mechanism and transient jump day
When jumping to the second, the second hand tends to shake when it encounters the longer and thinner second hand. This kind of shake comes from the play gap that must exist between the gear teeth that mesh with each other. In order to suppress this situation, 9F is added at the end of the wheel train With a hairspring, the elasticity of the hairspring is used to keep the gap between the gear teeth tight, thereby reducing the jitter of the second hand. The instant switching of the date requires a lot of power, so few quartz movements are used. In contrast, a 9F roller car (hour hand wheel) will spend 18 hours a day to accumulate energy for the spring that drives the day change. Wait until midnight Release of breath, through this mechanism to achieve 1/2000 seconds of instant jump day.

Ordinary calibres, small carts and second wheel collars may interfere with each other, so 9F adds sleeves between the shafts to allow them to operate independently.

3-axis to 4-axis independent structure
In order to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the 9F, the GS launched the first time of the two-time function 9F86 in the series in 2018. 9F originally had a so-called independent shaft structure, because the common movement of the barrel, small barrel and second wheel collar The frictional force of direct contact with each other may cause mutual interference, so 9F added sleeves between the shafts to allow them to operate completely independently. 9F86 has more GMT needles, and the structure of the independent axis has also changed from three axes (hours, minutes, seconds) to four axes. These sleeves are integrally formed with the splint, and the processing of the plate is extremely precise. This can be seen from this point Of high quality.

9F Caliber 25th Anniversary SBGV238

Stainless steel, 18K yellow gold / 9F82 quartz movement / hour, minute, second, date display / year difference ± 5 seconds / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / waterproof 100 meters / diameter 40mm / 600 limited edition worldwide 35,000 RMB

SBGN003

Stainless steel material / 9F86 quartz movement / hours, minutes, seconds, date display / time function between the two places / year difference ± 10 seconds / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 100 meters / table diameter 40mm